Tree Planting Guide
STEP 1: Dig the hole in the center of the loosened area, no deeper than the depth of the root ball and 2-3 times the diameter of the root ball. In very hard soils, roughen the edge of the hole to assist new roots in growing out into the surrounding soil.
STEP 2: If the tree is in a container, gently remove the container from the root ball - don't pull by the trunk. Loosen roots with fingertips and prune away damaged or circling roots.
STEP 3: For balled or burlapped trees, rest the root ball in the center of the hole, reshaping the hole so the tree will be straight and at the proper level. After adjusting the tree, pull the burlap and any other material away from the sides and top of the tree.
STEP 4: Loosen the soil near the trunk to find the trunk flare. This point should be visible at the top of the root ball. If it is not visible, remove soil from the top until the trunk flare is visible.
STEP 5: Place the tree in the hole resting the bottom of the root ball on solid undisturbed soil. When finished, the trunk flare should be at or just above the soil surface. Planting too deep, covering the trunk flare, is the most common mistake, which causes the bark to rot!
STEP 6: Stand back and look at the tree before putting the soil back into the hole. You can make careful adjustments at this time to the planting height and the direction the branches face without seriously harming the roots.
STEP 7: Gently refill the hole with the original soil using one-third of the soil at a time. Compost and a small amount of fertilizer can be added to the soil mix before refilling to improve root growth knowing that organic matter in soil will decompose and soil will settle. Break up dirt clods and remove any grass, weeds or rocks. Lightly pack the soil with the shovel handle to remove air pockets, be careful to not compress the soil too heavily. Remember the roots need to penetrate the native soil surrounding the pit. Water briefly. Refill and pack again until soil is even with the top of the root ball and the trunk flare is slightly above the soil. Water thoroughly.
STEP 8: If your tree is not planted in a lawn, using excess soil, construct a small earthen dam or berm, less than 4 inches tall, just outside of the root ball zone. This helps retain water and allows the water to soak into the soil rather than running off. The berm is temporary, remaining no more than two years, while your tree becomes established.
STEP 9: Mulch (chipped wood, bark compost or dry leaves) may be used over the entire loosened area of soil to about 3-4 inches deep. This will slow water loss, reduce competition from weeds and grasses, moderate the soil temperature and provide a small amount of nutrients. Keep mulch away from the trunk of the tree to prevent disease.
STEP 10: Remove the nursery stake. The nursery stake is tied tightly to the trunk and causes serious injury to the trunk of the tree if left in place after planting. If damage from the nursery stake is noted at the time it is removed, the tree may require replacement if the wounds are serious. Adding larger stakes is an optional temporary measure if tree stability is a problem. This will allow the trunk to develop strength. Be sure to remove as soon as possible. The sooner the stakes and ties are removed, the stronger your tree will be. Typically this can be 1-2 years and no longer than 3. Reddy stakes, available from your nursery, are the easiest to use.